'Tis the Season for Tinned Seafoods
A look at what’s on my shelf, new items from Ekone, and a quick shrimp recipe for holiday entertaining
There seems to be no end in sight for interest in the topic of tinned seafoods—not such a bad thing for this endlessly delicious, interesting, convenient option for seafood fans. I’ve written about them a few times at least, including this issue focused on frozen and tinned seafood (which includes mention of an outstanding tinned-seafood shop in Lisbon as well).
You’ll see in that newsletter a photo with a yellow-labeled tin of Ekone smoked oysters, of which I’ve been a fan for many years. While working on my cookbook Oysters, I took a research trip down to the Willapa Bay area, a historically significant oyster growing region in Washington. While there I stopped by Ekone oysters to buy some of their beloved smoked oysters at the source. They inspired a recipe I included in the book: a simple crostini spread with mashed lemony chickpeas and topped with a smoked oyster.
Recently, when I went to add a bunch of new cans of Ekone (more on that below) to my tinned seafood shelf, I realized I had quite an assortment collected in the last couple of years. Two are from our visit to the Pinhais cannery in Portugal from our trip last spring, others picked up elsewhere or gifts from friends. It’s about time I was popping open some of those cans, holiday gatherings the perfect occasion to do so.
As you’re heading out to parties and holiday meals in the coming weeks, keep top-quality tinned seafoods in mind for hostess gifts (a few in a nice ribboned packet, maybe paired with a sardine fork! [see below]) and for contributions for snacks, if that’s your assignment. A few tins with some smoked salmon, good olives, cornichons, crackers—the idea behind ‘seacuterie’ boards, sea-oriented versions of the omnipresent charcuterie board.
Maybe even just buy a few interesting options to add to your shelf, for a quick festive aperitif hour at home whenever the mood strikes.
Oh, and if you have a sardine fan on your shopping list, or a seafood lover who seems to already have everything they need, consider getting them a sardine fork. Direct from whose who know sardines very well: Nuri, a brand from Conservas Pinhais, which has been canning sardines for over 100 years. Here’s what I wrote following our visit to the cannery in Matsosinhos just outside of Porto. Such a fabulous visit, put that on your list if ever in that area! They have free shipping right now for orders over 30 Euros (about $32 US), which is good for orders to the US and I understand will continue through December 2. Good time to stock up on some of their sardines while you’re there. I just did!!!
Wishing all those celebrating Thanksgiving on Thursday a really wonderful day with great food, friends and family. It’s my favorite holiday of the year, this year my first in ages not hosting (friends who are usually at our table are hosting for a special occasion this year). I share perspectives and ideas for Thanksgiving in this post, and this one, from the past two years.
Ekone Tinned Seafoods
It was such a treat to join an event a couple of weeks ago at Taylor Shellfish’s oyster bar on Capitol Hill here in Seattle, to get an introduction to two new products from Ekone. Also a great opportunity to learn a bit more about the whole line—which is larger than I’d realized. Beyond their signature smoked oyster (plus two flavored versions), you’ll find smoked mussels, smoked coho salmon, and tuna (classic and lemon), among others.
Ekone began in 1980, when two shellfish farmers on Willapa Bay began to smoke some of their oyster harvest. Decades later, when Nick and Joanne Jambor were ready to retire, they approached Taylor Shellfish about carrying on their company’s tinned-seafood legacy. Now part of the multi-generational Taylor company, Ekone has a fresh look with updated packaging. And the line of Ekone products was increased by two recently, with the addition of Mussels in Curry and Mussels in Marinara with Capers.
Keep an eye out for them and a range of other great tinned seafoods, whether to add to your own stash at home or for holiday gatherings and gifts.
Herb-Marinated Shrimp with Cocktail Onions
I served these shrimp at a party this past weekend, for which I chose a menu of easy-going, make-ahead dishes with a retro feel. It’s a quick recipe to whip together. After just an hour of marinating time, the shrimp are speared onto small skewers or picks—each with a cocktail onion—and ready to be served at a cocktail party, as a game night snack or among snacks for a holiday gathering. You can marinate the shrimp up to 8 hours ahead and assemble them a couple of hours ahead; arrange on a plate and refrigerate until ready to serve. Easy to double, too, for larger get-togethers.
This recipe comes from my Gourmet Game Night cookbook, filled with delicious things to serve while playing games. The intent is a nibble, with just one shrimp and onion per skewer.
1/2 cup chopped fresh tender herbs (flat-leaf parsley, tarragon, dill, fennel, chervil, and/or chives)
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
18 large shrimp (about 1 pound), peeled and deveined
18 pickled cocktail onions
In a medium bowl, combine the herbs, vinegar, and olive oil, with a good pinch each of salt and pepper. Stir to mix; set aside.
Bring a medium pan of salted water to a boil. Add the shrimp and cook until just opaque through the thickest part, about 2 minutes. Drain well and let cool for a few minutes. Add the warm shrimp to the marinade and let cool to room temperature, stirring a few times. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
To serve, spear each shrimp onto a small skewer or pick, with 1 pickled onion in the nook of the shrimp’s curve. It’s fine for some of the herbs to be clinging to the shrimp, but brush off any excessive herbs. Arrange the shrimp skewers on a plate and serve.
Makes 18 shrimp
